Duowen Stir-Fried Water Spinach with Meat 多文空心菜炒肉

Duowen Stir-Fried Water Spinach with Meat (多文空心菜炒肉) pairs pork with water spinach from Duowen town (多文镇) in Lingao County (临高县), Hainan. The vegetable grows in natural spring water, mainly around Toushen village (头神村), and the Lingao county government says it was once a tribute vegetable in the Qing dynasty and earned the nickname 'President's vegetable' (总统菜) after it was flown to Beijing to serve during Richard Nixon's visit to China.

Ingredients

Toushen village lies at the northern foot of Duowen Ridge (多文岭). Hainan Daily credits volcanic springs at the foot of the ridge, with a strong flow of mineral-rich water, for a large area of flooded fields suited to water spinach. China News Service reported in 2021 that more than 380 mu (about 25 hectares) were planted, that about nine in ten Toushen villagers grow the crop, and that Duowen water spinach received national agricultural geographical-indication certification in 2017. The shoots grow fast in the spring water and are picked as soon as the leaves appear, so they are very tender.

Flavour and texture

China News Service describes the texture as crisp, tender and smooth, with little fibre and a fresh fragrance; it adds that the vegetable stays bright green for three to four days uncooked and keeps its colour when stir-fried over an open flame. The Lingao county government names two differences from ordinary water spinach: its shape, and that it does not readily darken once cooked.

How it is made

Hainan Daily says water spinach is mostly stir-fried on its own or blanched and dressed, but it can also be cooked two ways at once: the leaves stir-fried plain, the stems stir-fried with pork belly or lean pork. Hainan cooks like to add a spoonful of shrimp paste when they stir-fry it.

Where it comes from

Hainan Daily names Duowen town, with Gancheng town (感城镇) in Dongfang, as one of the best-known places in Hainan for water spinach. The Lingao county government suggests going to Toushen village between April and October to pick it, when it is also sold in Duowen's market.