Tsurphu Monastery 楚布寺

About Tsurphu Monastery

Tsurphu Monastery (楚布寺) is the main monastery of the Karma Kagyu (噶玛噶举派) school of Tibetan Buddhism and the traditional seat of the Karmapa lamas. It lies in Gurum (古荣), Doilungdêqên District (堆龙德庆区), about 70 km west of Lhasa, on the upper Chubu River (楚布河).

The buildings stand mid-valley and face south, hemmed in by high mountains, about 28 km up the Dowo Lung valley on the north side of the river. English Wikipedia puts the altitude at about 4,300 m; Xinhua gives about 4,600 m. The main building's original walls were up to 4 m thick, and the monks' quarters lay to the east.

Düsum Khyenpa (杜松虔巴, 1110-1193), the first Karmapa, made offerings to the local protector deities here in 1159 and came back in 1189 to establish his principal seat; Chinese Wikipedia dates the founding to 1187. The community eventually numbered about 1,000 monks. In 1966, during the Cultural Revolution, the complex was wholly destroyed. Rangjung Rigpe Dorje, the 16th Karmapa, started rebuilding it in 1980 and died in 1981. Ogyen Trinley Dorje, recognised as the 17th Karmapa, was enthroned at Tsurphu and lived here until his flight to India in 2000.

Two yearly rituals draw pilgrims. On the 11th day of the fourth Tibetan month, monks and believers carry a satin appliqué image of Sakyamuni, 26 m wide, from the great Buddha hall (大佛殿) up the protector mountain Magala (玛嘎拉神山), above 4,700 m, and spread it down the slope. The abbot, Zhandui (占堆), told Xinhua in 2013 that it is the largest appliqué in Tibet; Xinhua put the custom of the display at more than 500 years old. At the Li Taqin (立塔钦, "raising the prayer-flag pole") rite in June 2016, Xinhua reported tens of thousands of worshippers.

What to look for

• The great Buddha hall (大佛殿), where the giant Sakyamuni appliqué is kept between displays
• The yearly unrolling of the 26 m wide Sakyamuni appliqué thangka on the 11th day of the fourth Tibetan month
• Magala (玛嘎拉神山), the monastery's protector mountain, rising above 4,700 m
• The Li Taqin (立塔钦) rite, the raising of the prayer-flag pole, which draws large crowds
• The main building's massive walls, originally up to 4 m thick

Location & getting there

Getting to Tsurphu Monastery

• Search for 楚布寺 with 拉萨市 and 堆龙德庆区.