Quanjiao Machang Mutton Noodles 全椒马厂羊肉面

How it is made

The Quanjiao county government's account starts after the winter solstice (冬至) each year, when Machang people slaughter goats, rid the meat of its gamey smell and impurities with various seasonings, and make it into a white mutton broth (白汁羊肉羹). Left overnight, the broth sets into a mutton jelly called yanggao (羊膏), which is cut into thin slices.

For each serving, an earthenware pot (沙钵) is set on a charcoal stove (栗碳炉) with water, salt, red pepper, sauce and garlic leaves. When the water boils, gongmian (贡面) noodles go in with the slices of mutton jelly, and the pot is simmered slowly over the charcoal. Once cooked it is brought to the table, where coriander and spinach are added.

Flavour and texture

The county describes the broth as fresh and savoury, the meat as tender enough to fall apart, the noodles as fragrant and the greens as crisp, with a mild heat that brings on a sweat and leaves the body feeling loose and comfortable afterwards.

Where it comes from

In recent years Machang people have opened noodle shops across Quanjiao's towns and countryside and further afield in Nanjing, Shanghai and Shenzhen. The county notes that the dish is strongly limited by the season and that no good way has yet been found to control quantities, so it has not become a standardised fast-food chain.

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