Roast Lamb Ribs 烤羊排

Heat, fat and bone

Ribs are usually marinated or rubbed with salt and spices and then cooked over dry heat until the fat renders and the outside takes on colour. The bone slows the cooking from underneath, so a rack that looks done on the surface can still be raw near the joint. That is why good versions are cooked a little longer at a lower temperature rather than blasted hot at the start.

Whether the kitchen uses charcoal, gas or an oven changes the result: charcoal adds smoke, while an oven keeps the meat more evenly moist but less crisp at the edges.

What it tastes like

Highland lamb tends to be leaner and milder than the strongly gamey mutton some travellers expect, so the seasoning usually stays simple: salt, cumin, chilli or a light rub rather than a heavy sauce. The fat around the bone is the most flavoursome part and the quickest to burn, so trim or eat around any blackened edges. Ask for the chilli on the side if you want to control the heat.

Grilling on the plateau

Dry-heat cooking suits a place where fuel is scarce and meat often arrives as a whole animal, since it needs little equipment beyond a fire and a rack. Ribs are also the cut that cooks most evenly over an open flame. You will find them on the menus of ordinary grill restaurants as often as in places aimed at visitors.

What goes onto the ribs

Expect lamb ribs, salt, cumin, chilli and sometimes garlic, with oil or a light rub to hold the spices. Some kitchens marinate in yoghurt or a soy-based mixture, both of which add ingredients you may be avoiding. If you keep halal or avoid a particular spice, ask what is in the rub before the meat goes on the fire.

How to order

Ask for 烤羊排 and then decide on the cut: a whole rack is impressive but awkward to share, while separated ribs are easier to eat. Portions are often priced by weight, so ask what one order contains. Ask for 微辣 if you want a little heat rather than the full rub, and 不要辣 if you want none.

At the table

The ribs arrive hot and are best eaten straight away, while the fat is still liquid and the edges crisp. Hold the bone and bite, or use a knife to separate the ribs if the kitchen has not already done it. A squeeze of lemon or a vinegary cold dish cuts the fat, and plain rice or flatbread is enough alongside.

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