Lightly Torched Raw Pork Skin 生皮

Where it comes from

By tradition the custom of eating Lightly Torched Raw Pork Skin began in the Nanzhao (南诏) period, and it is a traditional Bai dish for entertaining guests; the prefecture government notes that it was once called the national dish of the Dali Kingdom. Versions differ in taste and method across Dali. The government feature singles out Wanqiao (湾桥) town in Dali city, whose version is known well beyond the town: on market days people come from elsewhere for it, and good skin is often reserved in advance at the market.

How it is made

The version considered best is skin singed over a straw fire, which is how the hair is burnt off when the pig is slaughtered, and it is at its best just after being cut from the carcass. Despite the name, the singeing leaves the skin and part of the meat seven- to eight-tenths cooked, so the dish tastes fresh and tender without a greasy or porky smell.

The preferred cuts are the ears and snout, which are crisp, and the shoulder and belly; three-layered belly (三线肉), with skin and meat together, is both tender and springy.

How it is eaten

The dip decides how good the dish is. It is balanced between sour and sweet and combines stewed plums (炖梅), aged vinegar, soy sauce, sugar, ground Sichuan pepper, ground chilli, minced garlic and ginger; the government feature says none of them can be left out.